Quick Fix: Is a flood-damaged car worth the savings?



Hi, I'm Lauren Fix, longtime automotive journalist and a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Welcome back to "Quick Fix," where I answer car-related questions you submit to me.

Today's question comes from Paul in Pennsylvania.

Hi Lauren:

What is the deal with flood-damaged cars?

Should I take a chance? The deals sound great, but am I buying a nightmare?

Great question, Paul, and I think this is something a lot of people get confused about.

Remember Hurricanes Rita and Katrina? Combined, they resulted in some 500,000 flood-damaged cars, many of which ended up on the used market.

I'll say now the same thing I said then: Don't buy a car with flood damage. It's not worth the risk.

Why?

Number one, there is no warranty. I don't care if the car is brand new, you lose your warranty right out of the box. No manufacturer is going to stand behind it. And they can tell if the car is flood-damaged; even if it's not obvious upon inspection, the insurance companies will report it.

Secondly, water can do unseen damage to a car's passive safety features. This includes airbags, forward collision warning, even seat belts.

If the water got into the base of the car, like where your feet go onto the carpet, that could rot out everything underneath — including the various computerized sensors that keep these safety features working.

Even worse, corrosion from water could actually cause an airbag not to deploy or deploy with no reason. Not good.

The third thing that people often fail to consider is the health hazards a flood-damaged car can present. If its in the ductwork, you're breathing it: anything from mold to mildew to E. coli.

Think about it: You don't know where the car was. It was underwater, yes, but was it salt water? Sewer water?

Now — if you suspect a car you're looking at is flood-damaged, the best thing to do is take it to an ASE-certified technician. If he confirms the damage, walk away. No matter how good the deal may seem, you do not want that car.

Even without a mechanic, there are a few tell-tale signs to look for.

  • Excessive air freshener: If they've doused the car with perfume in the interior ... yeah, that's a clue they're covering something up.
  • Rust in weird places: Rust is never good, of course, but in some places on a car it's understandable. In other places — on the hood hinges, for example — it's a very bad sign.
  • Moisture in the fuse box: If you see any signs that water's gotten under that plastic cover, that means it's been in a flood.

Finally, watch out for "washed" titles. Unscrupulous sellers will move a title from state to state to try to hide flood damage or a car's totaled status. Don't rely on the title alone; companies like Carfax can help protect.

Ultimately, its better to trust your gut than to snap up a too-good-to-be-true deal. Flood-damaged cars are nothing to play around with, and they can be very dangerous.

Got a car-related question? Email me at getquickfix@pm.me.

$3,000 for hail damage? How you can protect yourself from the new rental car scam



Car rental companies are quietly charging unsuspecting customers thousands of dollars in so-called damage fees — often weeks after the car has been returned. These charges are frequently unsupported, barely documented, and nearly impossible to dispute unless you know exactly how the system works.

In one case, a customer returned a rental car in Denver — no issues, no incident, nothing unusual. Then came a $3,000 bill in the mail. The reason? Alleged hail damage.

The roof and hood are often where hail damage occurs, and ironically, those are the areas most renters fail to photograph.

There were no photos provided at the time of the return. No damage inspection report. No conversation with a manager on the spot. The only justification given weeks later was that the company pulled weather data and determined that he must have been near a hailstorm — therefore, he was automatically responsible.

No proof

That’s right. Not proof that the car was damaged under his care. Not proof that damage even existed when he returned the car. Just the assumption that because he rented a car in Colorado during summer, and a hailstorm occurred somewhere in the region, he was liable.

This happens far more often than most people realize.

Rental companies are increasingly relying on post-return claims. These are often triggered not by their employees noticing anything during check-in, but by someone (often with the help of AI) discovering a ding or scratch later — sometimes days later — and assuming it must have been the last renter. Or worse, they may have known the damage was already there before but didn’t assign the cost to the correct customer and are now looking for someone else to pin it on.

Renter’s burden

What makes this so dangerous is that the process overwhelmingly favors the rental companies. The burden of proof is on you. You’re guilty until you can prove otherwise. Most renters have no idea what they agreed to when they signed the contract. Most don’t take thorough photos before driving off the lot. And by the time the bill shows up, it’s too late.

Now let’s be clear about what’s really happening.

The rental contract says you’re responsible for any damage that occurs during the rental period — regardless of fault. It doesn’t matter if a tree branch falls on the car while it's parked or if a shopping cart scratches the side at a grocery store. Even acts of nature like hail or flood damage fall on your shoulders.

If there’s no photo record or inspection at the time of pickup or return, the company is free to decide when the damage happened — and guess who they choose every time.

Hail no

In this Denver case, the customer did one thing right: He checked the weather history from his phone and confirmed that he was never near a hailstorm during the rental period. His phone’s GPS and time-stamped data backed it up. But even with that evidence, the company still tried to push the charge.

They claimed they use an external hail and storm database to verify damage. But the customer wasn’t in the affected area. There was no damage noted at the time of return. And there were no inspection records. Eventually, after escalating the matter and demanding documentation, the company backed down.

Only then did they admit they were “open to further conversation” and dropped the claim. No apology. No acknowledgment of fault. Just silence.

RELATED: Don't get SCAMMED by fake parking tickets!

UCG/Getty Images

A new revenue stream

This is not the exception. It’s the model.

This is a serious consumer issue, and it’s getting worse. Post-return damage claims are now a revenue stream for some rental operations. And many of them outsource these cases to third-party claim companies that are incentivized to collect, regardless of the facts.

So what can you do?

Protect yourself

You can start by protecting yourself before the rental even begins. That means taking full photo documentation of the vehicle — front, back, both sides, the roof, hood, bumpers, wheels, undercarriage if possible, and the interior. Use your phone’s camera. Those photos carry location data and time stamps. That’s your legal defense.

The roof and hood are often where hail damage occurs, and ironically, those are the areas most renters fail to photograph. You’ll never see the top of the car unless you intentionally document it, and that’s exactly what these companies rely on.

When returning the car, do the same thing. Photograph it again, preferably at the return location, clearly showing its condition and surroundings. If there’s no one available to do a return walk-through with you, document everything yourself. Don’t assume that handing in the keys means you’re in the clear. Some companies inspect returned vehicles hours — or even days — after the fact.

Know your rights

Now let’s address the bigger question: Do you actually have any rights if a company decides to file a damage claim against you?

The answer is yes, but you’ll have to fight for them.

If you receive a damage claim, you have the right to request documentation. That includes photographs of the damage, time and date of the inspection, a copy of the repair invoice, and a full record of the chain of custody.

That means: When was the damage noted, by whom, and how did they confirm it happened during your rental?

Most people never ask for this. But when you do, it puts the company in a position where they must justify the claim — not just demand payment.

If they can’t produce that documentation, or if what they provide is vague or missing time stamps, that’s a red flag.

You can dispute the charge directly with the company, and if they won’t respond or negotiate, you can escalate it to their corporate office. If you paid with a credit card — and you should — file a dispute. In many cases, the credit card issuer will take your side if the company can’t substantiate the claim.

Some renters have even taken these disputes to small-claims court — and won. Not just because they were innocent, but because the rental company failed to provide the most basic evidence.

A transparency problem

But here’s the reality: You shouldn’t have to go through that. You shouldn’t have to become a lawyer, meteorologist, and forensic investigator just to rent a car and return it without being charged for damages you didn’t cause.

So here’s the bottom line.

The rental car industry has a transparency problem. Customers are being blamed for damages they didn’t cause, and the companies making these accusations are not being held to any standard of proof.

And until that changes, your best defense is documentation.

Take photos. Keep receipts. Ask for a walk-around when possible. If there’s visible damage, request a different vehicle or get it marked on your paperwork. If a claim arises, don’t ignore it, but don’t blindly pay it either.

This isn’t about one company or one customer. This is about an entire industry that has been allowed to operate in the shadows when it comes to post-rental damage claims. That has to change.

But until it does, protect yourself — and spread the word.

Quick Fix: Can I repair a rusted-out underbody myself?



Hi, I'm Lauren Fix, longtime automotive journalist and a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Welcome back to "Quick Fix," where I answer car-related questions you submit to me.

Today's question comes from Stephanie in Michigan.

Hi, Lauren:

Is it possible for a car owner to repair a rusted-out bottom of their automobile without a professional?

Well, Stephanie, unless you've got a lot of collision experience, I would recommend not doing this yourself.

Now, here's what the pros do at the collision shop. They blast the underbody using compressed air and some type of abrasive: sand, walnut shells, baking soda.

Or these days, they may also use laser rust removal.

Theoretically, you could probably rent the equipment and do it yourself. And then you could take your car to a place like Ziebart for rust protection.

But keep in mind the safety considerations. You want to wear protective gear — and you want to know what you're doing.

And not just for your own safety, but also for your car's. Remember, there is a lot of stuff down there: brake lines, fuel lines, rubber hoses, driveshaft transmission. If you damage one of those, you could end up with a much bigger problem.

So you want to make sure it's done correctly. If the rust damage is so severe that you actually have holes in your floor pan (which used to happen a lot in 80s cars), then you get into replacing sections, and it's probably a good idea to leave it to a collision shop.

Got a car-related question? Email me at getquickfix@pm.me.

Quick Fix: Why are there so many uninsured drivers — and how can I protect myself?



Hi, I'm Lauren Fix, longtime automotive journalist and a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Welcome back to "Quick Fix," where I answer car-related questions you submit to me.

Today's question comes from Bob in California:

Hi Lauren,

What is the current rate of uninsured motorists? I live in California, and it seems like 1 out every 6 drivers has no insurance. That has to have an enormous impact on insurance costs.

Furthermore, it doesn't seem like in CA they are impounding these cars or attempting to get people to pony up for insurance.

What are your thoughts?

You are correct, Bob: California has a significant issue with uninsured drivers.

According to estimates from the California Department of Motor Vehicles and the Insurance Information Institute, approximately 17% of California drivers are uninsured as of 2025. This translates to roughly 4.7 million uninsured motorists out of the state’s 27.65 million licensed drivers.

So your estimate that "1 out of every 6 drivers" lack insurance is spot-on.

It's a big mess, and it's hitting insured drivers hard, inflating premiums and leaving responsible drivers to foot the bill for others' negligence. California's new 2025 liability minimums are a step toward better protection, but they're also pushing premiums up, which could ironically increase the uninsured rate as low-income drivers get priced out. It's a tough cycle to break.

Fines and impoundment are on the books, but they're not aggressively enforced enough to deter the sheer volume of uninsured drivers.

Impounding vehicles sounds effective, but it's costly for authorities and politically sensitive, especially in poor communities. Electronic verification systems could help, but they're only as good as the follow-through — random checks or sting operations might catch more violators.

What can you do to protect yourself as a law-abiding California driver? Uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage, or UM/UIM, is a must. I'd recommend boosting your UM/UIM limits to at least $100,000/$300,000 or higher if affordable, as medical and repair costs can skyrocket.

To solve this problem, California needs a multipronged approach: tougher enforcement, more impoundments, stricter DMV checks, better access to affordable insurance, and public campaigns to stress the risks of driving uninsured.

Until then, insured drivers like you are stuck subsidizing the system. It's frustrating, but arming yourself with solid coverage and staying vocal about enforcement gaps can make a difference.

And unfortunately, it's not just a problem in California. Across the U.S., about 14% of drivers — roughly 1 in 7 — are uninsured, with states like Washington, D.C. (25%) and New Mexico (25%) leading the pack, driving up premiums for everyone else. Check your state’s uninsured motorist rate and consider adding UM/UIM coverage to protect yourself on the road.


Got a car-related question? Email me at getquickfix@pm.me.

Quick Fix: What's the safest used car for my teenager?



Hi, I'm Lauren Fix, longtime automotive journalist and a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Welcome back to "Quick Fix," where I answer car-related questions you submit to me.

Today's question comes from Sarah in Tampa, Florida.

Hi Lauren:

We are helping our teenager buy his first car so he can drive himself to his job this summer. We want something safe, inexpensive, and reliable.

Can you 1) recommend where to look for such a car? And 2) suggest any makes or models that buyers tend to have good luck with?

Thank you!

Great question, Sarah — and I think I've got some good answers for you.

When it comes to buying a used car, dealers are always a good bet: buy a certified pre-owned vehicle and you're protected by a warranty.

If you want buy from a private seller, I recommend you get the vehicle you're considering up on a lift so an ASE certified mechanic can look at. Have him or her give the car one of three rankings:

Green: This means "go," of course. It's well-maintained, no rust, the engine and brakes are in good working order. An easy decision to buy.

Yellow: Cars like this might have been in a minor fender-bender, or have some concerning but repairable issues to deal with. Worth a buy if you know what you're getting into.

Red: Avoid. This includes severe accidents, flood damage, a salvage title, and the kind of problems (transmission, for example) that can cost more than the value of the car.

As far as car safety goes, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) maintains a wealth of ratings online.

Now for where the rubber meets the road. Here are a few of my car recommendations at different price points.

New

  • Kia K4
  • Mazda CX 30
  • Toyota Prius
  • Honda Civic

Used under 20k

  • 2017 Toyota RAV4
  • 2018 Mazda CX 5
  • 2017 Honda CR – V
  • 2021 Toyota Corolla

Used under 15k

  • 2018 Kia Sportage
  • 2019 Kia Soul
  • 2017 Toyota Corolla
  • 2018 Mazda3

And, for some real bargains (keep in mind, however, that with cars 10-15 years old you're sacrificing safety and/or reliability):

Used under 10k

  • 2009 Toyota RAV4
  • 2010 Honda element
  • 2011 Toyota Avalon

Much more information where that came from. Just click the video below:

Got a car-related question? Email me at getquickfix@pm.me.

Quick Fix: Why has my car insurance skyrocketed overnight?



Hi, I'm Lauren Fix, longtime automotive journalist and a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Welcome back to "Quick Fix," where I answer car-related questions you submit to me.

Today's question comes from Danny in Wiley, Texas.

Hi, Lauren.

Three years ago, I moved my family from Southern California to northeast Dallas suburbs. And we couldn't be happier. We left California in California and haven't looked back.

That said, it was recently time for my insurance renewal, and I had been with AAA — a primary California insurance provider who also services Texas — for 20-plus years.

They were raising our rates by nearly 50%. We were two drivers with two vehicles and zero tickets or accidents.

Yes, our rates were climbing from $4,000 to $6,000 annually, WTF. This has never happened before.

And then we bought a new car and decided we would keep the other two, and they quoted me $9,500, nearly $10,000 a year. Whoa, we had a double take. I spent two hours on the phone with AAA, and in the end, they landed on "our rates have just increased."

Is this really the case, or is it BS?

Note: We have since moved to State Farm, gotten better coverage, and all three vehicles are paying about $4,500 annually. What do you think?

A lot of us feel your pain, Danny. I think we can narrow the rate hike down to a few culprits, from data mining to disaster — but the important thing is you shopped around for a better deal.

Let's check it out in the video below:

Got a car-related question? Email me at getquickfix@pm.me.

Cold plunge: How I survive winters in the sticks



City people moving to the country: This one’s for you. Country people, you know all this and a lot more already, so be sure to correct anything I get wrong with a comment; thank you in advance.

After spending all of my life living in cities and towns, I’ve got two winters of rural living under my belt. My house in Vermont is only a few miles outside the capital (itself a mere village of 8,000), so it’s situated conveniently for supply runs. But I live past where the pavement turns to dirt and the water, sewer, and natural gas lines end.

What to do for light? Kerosene lamps. No, not candles. No, not rechargeable LED lights. No, not battery-powered flashlights. Kerosene lamps.

It’s not “off grid,” but the situation shares some of the same features, and you need to attend to some of the same preparation.

Being prepared is especially important in winter, but it will help in summer, too.

The philosophy to keep in mind: Preparing should aim for low tech, not high tech. Kerosene lamps and lanterns, not “solar rechargeable LED lights,” for example. (Where are you going to recharge them? What happens when the computerized chip doesn’t work right?)

Aim for manual, simple devices, not high-tech “survival gadgets.”

If you live in a sparsely populated area in the country with hard winters, you are going to lose power several times in winter. And you’re going to be among the last houses to have it restored because power companies prioritize areas with the most people. In Vermont, I’ve gone two or three days without electricity each winter.

How much of your day will be affected by this, and how do you prepare for it? Since my stove is electric, I can’t cook on it without juice. But wait — no running water, either. Why? Because the water comes from a well, and an electric pump brings it into the house.

It’s one thing to have no internet and lights but entirely another to have nothing to flush the toilet with.

Water

Stock up drinkable water jugs, lots of them, for cooking and drinking. Only for cooking and drinking. You’re going to use “gray water” for other things.

Have a rain barrel to catch water to use for flushing toilets and cleaning. Have buckets on hand. Fill them up.

Fill up your bathtub with water when a storm threatens.

This year, I resorted to melting snow in a stock pot on a portable camp stove.

I’m considering adding a hand pump to my drilled well next year. Do you remember the episode of "Little House on the Prairie" when Pa installed a water pump in Ma’s sink for the first time? Yep, that kind of pump. They’re a great backup for getting water out of the ground when the electric pump is off.

Husband your water wisely. Use your drinking water only for drinking and cooking, not for washing yourself or your dishes. Use “gray water” — the stuff in the rain barrel, the water stored in your tub — for washing dishes, flushing toilets, and other utility purposes.

Be prepared to give yourself sponge baths with a modest amount of water.

Light

What to do for light? Kerosene lamps. No, not candles. No, not rechargeable LED lights. No, not battery-powered flashlights. Kerosene lamps.

Why? Admittedly, I’m partisan as I collect and refurbish kerosene lamps and regularly run them for heat and light. But they’re superior to other backup lighting. Much brighter than candles, and they don’t need batteries (you just have to keep a stock of kerosene on hand). Also, they’re beautiful.

Some guidelines:

  • Buy only clear, undyed kerosene at either the gas station or hardware store. Never use anything but this. Do not use “lamp oil.” It’s liquid wax, burns dim, eats wicks, and stinks. Kerosene does not stink in a lamp if it’s clean and undyed.
  • Simple flat wick oil lamps, antique or modern, are foolproof.
  • Those wanting more heat and light should get an antique “center draft” lamp with a big, round wick that puts out substantial light and heat. A good bet is a Rayo-brand lamp, easily found on eBay.
  • No, you don’t have to worry about “fumes” or “carbon monoxide.” This is modern hysteria; you’re not afraid of your gas stove, so you don’t have to fear your lamp. Your ancestors who used these weren’t dying of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Heat

If you already have an expensive heating system in place, I get that you’re not going to change that out.

When I moved into this house, I had the “blessing” of starting from scratch as the downstairs had been flooded. If you're in a similar position, I strongly advise installing something that requires no electricity.

I mean no electricity at all. Not for igniting, not for running. If it needs juice to put out heat, it’s too modern and complicated to be a good basic choice in the country.

I chose a propane-fired “fireplace stove.” It’s a beautiful cast iron piece enameled in red with a glass front; it looks like a late-19th-century wood stove. The operation is entirely mechanical, even the wall-mounted thermostat. It has its own igniter but can be lit with a match if necessary. It maintains a standing pilot light.

Whatever you choose, I recommend a basic model that ignites and fires without electricity. If this means you have to buy a vintage furnace in good or refurbished condition, then yes, that is a better choice.

Good emergency supplies of heat are portable kerosene or propane heaters. Be sure to keep a supply of fuel on hand.

Cooking and eating

If you have an electric kitchen stove, you’ll need a backup. I love my two-burner Coleman propane camping stove. It’s compact and folds up neatly for storage. That the burners put out serious heat is a bonus. Keep extra propane cylinders on hand.

Of course, you’ll also need to have nonperishable food on hand. Vegetables and grains aren’t going to get you through alone; don’t forget meat and fat. Canned goods are your friend in this situation, especially canned meat.

People’s minds seem to go toward “buy lots of dried beans and rice,” and I don’t know why. These are not the high-quality proteins you can get from meat (and they don’t have necessary fat), and they take more water and energy to cook.

I suggest laying in:

  • Canned chicken breast and tuna
  • Canned corned beef
  • Canned Spam-type meat

Be sure to keep some bacon grease or lard on hand. It doesn’t need refrigeration and can cook just about anything, adding necessary animal fat and calories.

Transportation

Don’t forget about your car.It’s always a good idea to keep your gas tank full during winter.

If you go off the road, you’ll be glad you have the engine to keep you warm. But it’s also a great backup for charging your phone so you can stay in communication while the power is out and the roads are bad.

Obviously, this isn’t a guide to true homesteading or living off the grid, but it can help you get through a few days or weeks of living in the sticks without power and running water. If you’re an old hand at this and have wisdom to pass along, please share it in the comments.

Quick Fix: Why can I never fill my gas tank completely full?



Hi, I'm Lauren Fix, longtime automotive journalist and a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers. Welcome back to "Quick Fix," where I answer car-related questions you submit to me. Today's question comes from Don in Longmont, Colorado.

Dear Lauren:

My 2008 Toyota Tundra has a 5.7 liter engine, and I bought it new in 2008. The specs say the gas tank is 26 gallons, however, I've never been able to put more than 22 gallons in it, even when the gas gauge reads empty or E.

Some have said Toyota does this on purpose to keep you from running out, or keep the fuel pump covered to keep it cool, or maybe the gauge is just off. What do you think?

I think you're on the right track, Don. You do not want your car to run out of gas completely — and not just because you'll be stuck somewhere.

Let's get into it in the video below:

Got a car-related question? Email me at getquickfix@pm.me.

7 tips for getting the best car loan possible



If you’re considering buying a car, odds are you’re thinking about getting an auto loan as well.

Below are seven crucial tips about auto loans that will help you find a financing solution that’s a good fit for your needs so that when the time actually comes to buy a car, you’ll be ready to roll.

1. Aim for shorter terms

If your financial situation allows for it, choosing a shorter loan term offers certain advantages.

Not only will the interest rates be lower the shorter the term, but you’ll save by paying less overall for your vehicle. Plus, you’ll be on the path to paying it off sooner.

If you can’t afford the monthly loan payment on the car you want with a shorter-term loan, then you might consider waiting until you can make a slightly larger down payment.

2. Pay it down

Whatever your dream car may be, the bigger your down payment on it, the lower your interest rate will be. At a minimum, you should try to put down at least 20%. The general rule of thumb is that for every $1,000 you put down, your monthly payment will decrease roughly $18.

3. Time it right

Timing is everything, especially when it comes to buying a car. If you can, wait until the later months like October, November, or December to shop.

Also, try to look later in the month and earlier in the week, as these are the times when salespeople are trying to meet their quotas and therefore are more likely to negotiate down to lower prices.

4. Cover those taxes & fees

Among the things that are often overlooked until the end of the car-buying process are the taxes and fees. If you can, try to account for these in the beginning of the process and pay them off in cash. It may sound like a small detail, but it can save you hundreds of dollars over the course of your loan.

5. Refinance & save

There are many situations where refinancing your existing car loan can save you money. Your credit may have improved or maybe you just want to lower your monthly payments.

Whatever your situation may be, refinancing may be the quickest way to a better interest rate. Try this calculator to see if refinancing might be right for you.

6. Consider going through a credit union

While credit unions can help you consolidate an existing auto loan, they're also a good first choice to finance a loan.

Walking into a dealership with an already-approved auto loan from a credit union gives you a stronger bargaining position. See if the dealership can beat the rate you have.

7. Use conquest and loyalty discounts

If you are buying a new car, never leave this discount behind. The amount can be $500-$2500 to keep your loyalty or to get you to buy into a competing brand.

Is your car a lemon? How to tell — and what to do about it



Does your car spend more time in the shop than in your driveway? And for the same repairs, over and over again?

Congratulations — you might just have a lemon.

The term 'lemon' is often tossed around to refer to any beat-up car, but it’s actually a legal distinction, indicating a defective product that is therefore covered under applicable statutes and special lemon laws in your state.

Ok, it's not exactly something to celebrate, but the good news is you do have the leverage to seek a refund or replacement and maybe reimbursement for repairs.

All thanks to lemon laws.

What are lemon laws?

Before I talk about what lemon laws cover, let me be clear about what they don't: any complaints about a vehicle’s fundamental design or other non-critical issues such as squeaks and rattles, minor vibrations, or fading paint.

Lemon laws only apply to problems that either impair the normal operation of the vehicle or affect its value, intended use, or safety — problems that the manufacturer has failed to fix satisfactorily after ample opportunities to do so.

If you have a vehicle that breaks down or fails in some way, even frequently, but in different ways each time, then you're probably NOT going to be covered. The awful truth in that case is probably that you don't have legal grounds to be reimbursed; you simply have an unreliable, trouble-prone, or poorly designed car.

The term “lemon” is often tossed around to refer to any beat-up car, but it’s actually a legal distinction, indicating a defective product that is therefore covered under applicable statutes and special lemon laws in your state.

Lemon laws vary from state to state. In some states, used vehicles are covered, and in others, the law applies only to new vehicles. Some states may also include motorcycles and RVs in lemon laws.

How do I find my state's specific lemon law?

Check the Center for Automotive Safety for state-by-state lists, including details about what’s covered under lemon laws and contact numbers for more information on each state.

How do I know if my car is covered?

Here are three basic conditions you need for your car to qualify for lemon law coverage:

1. They’re doing the same repair over and over again.

The vehicle has an issue that's ongoing or has occurred repeatedly that you've first given the manufacturer (through a dealership service department) several chances to repair. Lemon law usually applies only after the manufacturer has tried to fix a particular problem three or four different times (depending on the state) and has failed to provide a lasting solution.

Again, if your car has had many different but unrelated repairs during the warranty period, then it is not covered by lemon law. Your best solution in that case would be to contact the manufacturer and inquire about the possibility of a warranty extension.

2. It’s a nearly new vehicle (to you).

Lemon law only applies during the first year or two and first 12,000 or 24,000 miles of vehicle ownership, depending on the state. Identification of the problem and all of the repair attempts must be made during this period. If the problem first occurred in the first year of ownership but subsequent repairs were not made until later years, then the vehicle will likely not be covered under lemon law.

3. You own rather than lease.

Lemon law does not usually apply to leased cars. That’s because the manufacturer or a bank is the actual owner of a leased car, and lemon law often only applies to the original buyer even if the car was bought used when less than a year old.

How do I strengthen my case?

1. Keep all your repair documentation.

Document each repair done during the warranty period. Keep all of your receipts. Consumer laws won’t apply unless you keep your own records as proof of all repairs done. Keep copies of the original repair order for each repair and make sure that the dealership correctly documents your problem and how long your car was in for the repair (In some states, 30 days in repair in the course of a year defines a lemon car). Also, make sure you get a repair invoice for repairs covered by technical service bulletins.

2. Create and keep your own documentation.

If a component of your car that has already been repaired fails in a situation where it puts your safety in jeopardy or causes an accident, document it with pictures, witnesses, and a police report, if applicable.

How do I file under lemon law?

Filing a complaint and getting the lemon law process underway again depends on what state you reside in and where you purchased the car.

In some states, filing a lemon law complaint involves no more than filling out a formal complaint form, but in many other states, it is a more complicated legal process and involves the hiring of an attorney.

In either case, the advice of an attorney who is familiar with your state’s lemon laws will increase your chance of getting the refund.

If satisfactory action still isn't taken, be sure to lodge a consumer complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Consumer complaints are the primary signal for the NHTSA to launch an investigation on a particular problem. This often leads to recalls (if it relates to safety in some way) or technical service bulletins regarding the problems.

NOTE: The 30-day lemon law for used cars means that if a car is being repaired for 30 days out of a year, it is a lemon. However, the nuances of the law vary by state. Whether or not the lemon law can be applied to a used car with no warranty depends on the issue with the car and the specifics of the state’s laws.

So never buy a car that says “no warranty expressed or implied” as you will have no protections. Buyer beware.

What if my car isn't covered?

In the case that the lemon law doesn’t apply to you or if lemon law doesn’t give you the retribution you desire, there are often other laws that may apply.

If your car is highly troublesome but not covered under lemon law, first try contacting the regional service representative of the manufacturer. Document and request return receipts for all communications. Manufacturers will often take generous actions to maintain their reputations.

I hope you don't need the above information. But if you do, I hope you find it useful — and don't get too frustrated with the process. We all know what they say about life giving you lemons.